| Argungu is already full of visitors. The attraction, | | | | breath-holding contest. Contestants pop up from |
| however, is not this small Nigerian town, but the | | | | the water, one after the other, disappointed to |
| event starting the very next day: The Argungu | | | | see that others are outlasting them. The winner is |
| Fishing Festival. | | | | clocked at 4 1?2 minutes, and might have |
| What is that?’ you ask. Well, it began in 1934 | | | | continued longer if he had not been stopped by |
| as a fishing competition in celebration of the visit | | | | anxious assistants. |
| of the Sultan of Sokoto. The contest was so well | | | | The Big Fish |
| received it became an annual event! Other | | | | Saturday’s program is the high point: the |
| features were later included, and in 1970 an | | | | Argungu fishing contest. The rhythmic music of |
| agricultural and livestock fair was added. Usually | | | | drummers and chanters sets the mood for the |
| planned for February, this year’s festival, | | | | event. Crowds of fishermen station themselves |
| however, was held in March. | | | | on either side of the river, equipped with giant |
| A severe harmattan season forced this | | | | gourds and triangular fishing nets. Each gourd has |
| postponement. The harmattan is a cool, dry and | | | | an open end and is used either as a buoy on |
| often dust-laden wind that blows southwestward | | | | which the fisherman can float or as a container |
| from the Sahara from December through | | | | for fish. |
| February. As we travel to Argungu, strong winds | | | | Anticipation grows among the craning spectators. |
| still stir up dust from the bare land and sweep it | | | | Many are wondering if this year’s winning |
| along like a thick, brown, windblown fog. Our lips | | | | catch will be bigger than the 98-kilogram (216-lb) |
| and nostrils become sore from the dry wind. Men | | | | fish caught in 1979. Since last year’s festival, |
| in flowing robes, mounted high on camels, draw | | | | no fishing has been allowed in this portion of the |
| up the neckpieces of their turbans to cover | | | | river. The water has become quite shallow during |
| mouth and nostrils so that only their eyes peep | | | | this dry season and is doubtless now teeming |
| out through the swirling dust. Motor vehicles creep | | | | with fish. |
| along slowly until the wind dies down. Soon, | | | | At the sound of a gunshot, the charge of the |
| however, the people arrive, eager to see the | | | | fishermen begins. Wave after wave of men with |
| festival begin. | | | | their gourds and fishing nets surge down the river |
| It opens with an exhibition of achievements in | | | | banks. Within minutes the shallow smoke-gray |
| agriculture and livestock rearing. Let’s take a | | | | water swarms with men. A shout goes up: The |
| look at the goat-skinning competition. At a signal, | | | | first catch has been made! |
| each contestant truncates a hind leg of his | | | | Whenever anyone nets a heavy fish, other |
| slaughtered animal and inserts a small hollow | | | | contestants come to his aid. Men in a patrolling |
| cylinder between the skin and the flesh. He then | | | | boat take the catch to be weighed and tagged. |
| blows through this hole to inflate the whole animal, | | | | The pace of weighing increases, but few catches |
| which facilitates the separation of the skin from | | | | are heavier than 30 kilograms (66 lb). Many pick |
| the body. The winner is able to lift an undamaged | | | | up fish no bigger than sardines. Suddenly one |
| pelt free in just three minutes! | | | | weighing more than 40 kilograms (88 lb) is |
| At the Waterside | | | | caught! Since most of the contestants have |
| Friday and Saturday feature contests at the | | | | already left the water, the fisherman thinks this is |
| waterside, beginning with the Kabanci display—a | | | | the winner and makes the champion’s |
| number of water events in the small Matan Fada | | | | gesture. A few, however, continue fishing, hoping |
| River near the town. The banks of the river | | | | to catch something bigger. Perseverance pays off. |
| provide convenient slopes on which the | | | | Before the hour expires there is a shout of |
| spectators can stand and watch. Girls compete in | | | | triumph! It is a 1.3-meter (4.27-ft) Bukuiki, as it is |
| hand-fishing contests and races in canoes made | | | | named in Hausa. At 50 kilograms (110 lb), it |
| from hollowed-out palm trees. Men compete in | | | | weighs much less than the record catch of 1979, |
| similar and other events, including the underwater | | | | but it is this year’s winner nonetheless. |